I haven’t posted lately and there’s a reason for that, which will be duly explained in a separate missive. However, those of you who follow me on social media, will realise that my life has taken yet another fishy turn and I’m now reincarnated as a fish seller (I refuse to call myself a merchant). The Covid-19 crisis has precipitated a chain of events which has seen me come even more full circle and back to my intertidal roots, but as I say, that requires another chapter…..

Anyway my new guise involves in handling the most stunningly fresh and just-landed seasonal fish and shellfish from small day boats around our shores and one of the more ubiquitous species that pass thtough my chiller are native lobsters. I’ve waxed lyrical about lobs many times before of course, but as they’re coming into season everywhere right now, I thought it rather seasonally apt to share a simple, but classic, recipe that every seafood lover will cherish.

Little beats a freshly poached or grilled lobster with nothing added, save a homemade mayo or some tender asparagus, but just occasionally you fancy something just a little bit more adventurous and there’s nothing that screams ‘lobster’ in a rather decadent and epicurean fashion than a good old-fashioned ‘thermidor’.

Lobster Thermidor was orignally created by one of Auguste Escoffier’s chefs in Paris, in the late 1800’s, during which time a notorious play at a nearby theatre, was being performed. The title of the play was ‘Thermidor’ and so the dish was designed to accompany the play and enthuse diners, post performance.

Lobster thermidor of course, is often made with imported Canadian lobster to keep costs down and in fact langoustine, crawfish and even crab and spider crab compliment the dish very well. However, the perfect ingredient for me, naturally, is our wonderful native lobster and this version of the dish is not too overpowering, considering the nature of the sauce and the lobster’s delicate flavour.

A true Thermidor should involve brandy (cognac or armagnac), mustard and Gruyère cheese for the baked topping. This recipe uses white wine, instead of the cognac, still has the mustard and Gruyère, but slightly less cream and I’ve used fresh chervil in the mix in place of tarragon which is often also included.

A great way of making a little lobster go a long way and in my mind, as hearty and satiating a shellfish dish as you’ll find. You can also impress family and guests with something that looks and tastes very special.

Easy Lobster Thermidor - Serves 4

Ingredients

2 x 500g live lobsters (or cooked, if you don’t fancy the whole process)

250ml full fat milk

2 bay leaves

1 tsp English mustard

1 small onion chopped

1 tsp black peppercorns

100 ml dry white wine

1 tbsp creme fraiche

20g plain flour

1 heaped tbsp chopped fresh chervil

50 g Gruyère (grated)

Pinch cayenne

Method

Mix the milk, bay leaves, onion and peppercorns in a small pan. Bring to the boil, then set aside for 10 minutes to let the flavours infuse.

If cooking the lobsters from live, boil some salted water (fresh seawater if available) and put the lobsters in the freezer for 20 mins to induce dormancy. Alternatively, dispatch the lobsters by piercing the carapace behind the eyes with a suitable sharp instrument, which will kill them them instantaneously.

Introduce the lobsters to a rolling boil and then poach for approx 8 minutes - you’re not looking to overcook them ideally, as they will finish off in the sauce when baked..

When the cooked lobsters are cool enough to handle, extract the meat from the tails by splitting the lobster lengthways and removing the tail section. Remove the intestinal thread which runs down the dorsal side of the tail and discard. Reserve any roe (coral) and any tomalley (liver) from the head to use in the sauce.

Cut the tail meat into small bite sized pieces and extract the claw meat by cracking the shells and then do the same. Take the tail shell sections, wash and the bake under a moderate-high heat in the oven for 15 mins and put aside.

Take the seasoned milk and warm through, before melting the butter in a pan, till it foams and adding the flour to make your roux. Cook out the flour and then add the warm milk gradually, whisking until the sauce has a nice, silky-smooth consistency.

Soften the onions in the remaining butter in another pan and add the wine wine, increasing the heat so the mixture boils and reduces. Then stir in the sauce and whisk again over a low heat. Introduce the reserved coral and tomalley pressing out any lumps and whisk again. Now fold in the chopped chervil, mustard, half the grated Gruyère and combine with the creme fraiche with a touch of ground black pepper.

Place the shells in individual oven proof dishes or bowls and fold the chopped lobster meat into the sauce, coating liberally. Then spoon the mixture into the shells, top with the remaining cheese and sprinkle with a slight dusting of cayenne. Place the bowls under a high, preheated grill for 6-8 mins or until the cheese topping has browned and the sauce is bubbling.

Serve immediately with a simple green salad, frites or crusty French bread and a glass or two of something like a Muscadet or a White Burgundy.

Lobster heaven!