Dover soles are best described as a premium flatfish, ‘widely prized by chefs for its versatility, texture and ability to hold its flavour through a variety of sauces.’ Well, I don’t disagree with that - in all honesty it is, despite its restaurateur appeal, a perfectly easy fish to prepare, cook and eat if you follow a few basic steps. It’s also widely available, in season from the East coast all the way round through the Channel and beyond to the Celtic Sea, with a notable concentration in an area of sea above Trevose Head.

Because of its gravitas on a menu and the knowing looks that are exchanged when the whole fish arrives on a silver salver and is expertly filleted and portioned at the table, by a be-gloved waiter using fork, spoon and a deft hand, it’s sometimes overlooked for basic home cooking, just because of that perceived premium.

Soles are actually very accessible and in a very affordable form when bought as ‘slips’ or small soles, which are too insignificant to tempt most chefs, but when served simply and two or three at time, make an incredibly delicious and quick supper. Small they may be, but the flavour is huge, with an exquisite and delicious sweetness.

The Meunière part of this dish just means ‘dredged in seasoned flour’ a simple, but effective way of crisping and flavouring the outer skin of the fish whilst frying in butter. Of course adding fresh herbs like chopped parsley or chervil and chopped capers can also enhance the flavour of the resulting ‘beurre noisette’ very agreeably.

It’s worth noting that the Dover is not best eaten fresh from the water but allowed to pass the rigor stage before preparing. This makes skinning easier and firms the flesh, although it’s perfectly acceptable to cook skin-on.

Slip Sole Meuniere

Serves 1

Ingredients

1, 2 or 3 fresh slip soles, skinned, fins removed.

150g seasoned plain flour

250g salted butter

1 lemon cut into wedges.

Fresh curly parsley chopped and a couple of springs to garnish.

Method

You can get your fishmonger to do this for you when he skins the fish, but if presented with whole fish, then simply prep them by cutting off the lateral fins, tail and pectoral fins with a sharp pair of kitchen scissors. Remember to cut from the tail towards the head. You can also remove the head as well if you like, cutting round just behind the gills, but with slips it’s quite ok to leave on. Dry the fish with kitchen roll and dredge in the seasoned flour shaking off any excess.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan until it bubbles and starts to turn a nut brown colour. When slightly foaming, introduce the fish and cook equally on either side for approx 2 mins, or until the floured sides are golden and crispy.

Remove from the pan and transfer to a serving plate.

We now ‘unzip’ the sole by carefully teasing away the outer fin frills from the tail to the head. Then make an incision along the backbone of the fish with a knife and again gently push away the meat of the bone sideways, on both sides, until the full backbone is exposed. Now lift up the backbone from the tail and remove from the fish. You can now knit the two top fillets back together and the fish is ready for serving.

Add the chopped curly parsley to the warm beurre noisette and combine. Pour the mixture over the sole(s) and serve with the lemon wedges, buttered sourdough and the parsley garnish.

Fit for a king……