Megrim or megrim sole or sometimes ‘whiff’ are what we call left-handed flatfish (the way their eyes are set on their head) and are found all around the UK, but tend to inhabit deeper water compared to the more inshore flatfish species like dab, Dover sole and flounder. 

Typically exported - the French and Spanish adore them, they’ve never really come up on the radar for UK consumers, buy of course they should do. In season and in prime condition from Scottish, or in this case Cornish, waters megs in good nick, for me anyway, go head to head with any brill or lemon sole worth its salt. 

These recipes are meant to demonstrate the innate simplicity of cooking fresh, seasonal seafood and really there’s no easier solution to cooking an amazing fish such as the meg, than on the bone with minimal fuss. Fish cookery should not be a daunting prospect and although many folk see it as being overly complicated and perhaps shy away from experimenting or even ordering off a menu and I do get that. However, a little knowledge goes a very long way and hopefully I’ll demonstrate here that less is undoubtedly more. 

Megs can be found throughout the year, but in Cornwall and the South West mid-summer to autumn is probably the best time to try them. You’re more likely to buy them from an independent or coastal fishmonger, but they are there and just need to be made more of. Check the firmness of the flesh, the brightness of the eyes and the redness of the gills. The fish should smell of nothing other than the sea’s natural ozone. If you must, get your fishmonger to fillet, but maximum flavour will always come from a flatfish like this cooked on the bone. 

Ingredients - serves 2

One whole fresh Cornish megrim (gutted) about 1kg

200g Cornish sea salt butter

50ml Cold pressed rapeseed oil 

2 tbs capers

A good handful of fresh, chopped curly parsley 

Plain flour for coating

Ground black pepper 

Sea salt 

Lemon to serve

Parsley sprig to garnish 

Method

Firstly trim the fins and tail from the fish using kitchen scissors and always cut from the tail end to the head, against the lie of the fins. Next remove the head (not essential) by cutting around the bone behind the gills with a sharp knife. 

Season the flour well with salt and pepper and coat the fish liberally all over, shaking off any excess. 

Heat the oil and butter in a heavy frying pan and  once melted and bubbling well, introduce the fish carefully head end down, holding the tail and cooking on a relatively high heat for 3 mins. Roll the butter mixture around the fish and ensure that the skin doesn’t catch if not using a non-stick pan. 

Using a fish slice turn the megrim over and cook on the other side again for 3 mins until the skin is golden brown. Carefully lift the fish from the pan and place on a board, as it will continue to cook. Add a little more butter to the cooking liquor and the capers and chopped parsley. Stir and cook over a low-med heat for a couple of minutes to release the flavours and the butter takes on a nut brown appearance and nutty aroma. 

Place the fish on a warm plate and spoon over the hot caper and parsley ‘beurre noisette’